Spain’s location invites you to visit Africa, if only by ferry to Morocco. The proximity of this continent can also be felt while being on Spanish territory and yet at the height of… the Western Sahara. Such is the charm of the Canary Islands, one of the most populous of which is Gran Canaria.
Where does the name Gran Canaria come from?
In ancient times, the Canary Islands – according to researchers’ findings – were visited by both Greeks and Romans. They were only rediscovered by Europeans in the 14th century. At that time, the archipelago was inhabited by the Guanches, a people related to the Berbers. In that century and the following one, the islands became a destination for sailors from many European countries. At the end of the 15th century, they were finally conquered by the Spanish.
The Canary Islands were already mentioned in chronicles written almost a century earlier. Contrary to what many tourists going there for the first time assume, it does not come from canaries at all. The Latin name of the archipelago is Canariae Insulae, or “Islands of Dogs” (from Latin canis – dog). Researchers believe that the Canaries were once inhabited by packs of wild, fierce dogs, hence the term.
However, there is a connection between the name of the archipelago and canaries, except that the relationship is… reversed. The little yellow birds are so named because of their crowded presence on the islands.
Las Palmas and El Bufadero
Gran Canaria is the third largest in terms of surface area – after Tenerife and Fuerteventura – and the second most populous – after Tenerife – island of the archipelago. Its capital, Las Palmas, is the largest city in the Canaries and the ninth largest in the whole of Spain. It has a population of around 380,000 inhabitants, while the entire agglomeration has a population of over 600,000.
It is not a city of phenomenal beauty, able to compete with the Andalusian pearls – such as Seville, Córdoba, Granada or even Malaga. However, Las Palmas’ great asset is its location – the metropolis is flanked on three sides by the Atlantic, with mountains stretching behind it. The tourist heart of the capital is the peninsula occupying the ocean, with the Las Canteras district and the beach of the same name, rightly regarded as one of the prettiest urban bathing areas in Spain.
The old part of Las Palmas is also worth a visit, especially the cathedral. An obligatory point of the visit to the temple is to climb the tower, which overlooks the city and the ocean. The entrance to the cathedral is guarded by statues of dogs – after all, they are the symbol of the island. It is also worth taking a walk through the narrow streets of the Vegueta and Triana districts.
A few kilometres south of the capital’s centre is one of the island’s main tourist attractions, El Bufadero de La Garita. These are pools formed from coastal rocks into which ocean water pours. The phenomenon looks amazing, but you have to be lucky to witness it – it only occurs at high tide. A consolation prize for those who go there at other times are bright red crabs and large lizards, hidden between the rocks.
Mountainous island
At a similar distance from Las Palmas, there is something for lovers of mountain scenery and hiking. We are talking about the Caldera de Bandama, a volcanic crater about a thousand metres in diameter and over 200 metres deep. You can walk around the crater, or you can walk down, and the most impressive view is from the top of Pico de Bandama. If you are not a fan of climbing, it is possible to drive virtually to the top by car. The crater area is famous for its wine bars offering tastings of local products – not only wines, but also olives or cheese.
The number one destination for mountain hikers coming to Gran Canaria is Pico de Las Nieves, an almost two-thousand-metre peak. It takes around five hours to climb to the top. It is worth it, as the view is truly breathtaking. On sunny days you can admire the mountains on neighbouring Tenerife. However, there are no buses from Lal Palmas to the places where you can start the climb. The best way to get to the area around Pico de Las Nieves is therefore to hire a car, which can also be used to drive a good part of the way to the summit. The name of the mountain translates as ‘snow peak’. Snow does indeed sometimes occur there, although it is not a frequent occurrence.
Pico de Las Nieves is adjacent to the second highest peak on the island – Roque Nublo, which is about a hundred metres lower. This mountain is crowned by an almost 80-metre high vertical monolithic rock. The peak has had a mystical status among the locals since ancient times, and to this day many Canary Islanders believe that touching the rock guarantees good luck.
Amidst Gran Canaria’s mountainous landscape, a few noteworthy towns have spread out. The ominous-sounding Teror charms with its streets full of colonial houses and the small but beautiful basilica of Nuestra Señora del Pino. The biggest attraction in Firgas is the staircase-like street, decorated with hand-painted tiles (azulejos) and a fountain-waterfall.
The most important monument in Arucas is the 20th century neo-Gothic cathedral towering over the town, impressive in size and distinguished by its dark grey façade. Other towns on the island worth seeing are Agaete, Tejeda, San Agustin or San Mogan, known as the Canarian Venice.
“Golden Sands” in the Canary Islands
The most popular tourist attraction in Gran Canaria, however, is not the mountains or the towns, but the dunes of Maspalomas (Spanish: Dunas de Maspalomas) at the southern end of the island. They are truly Saharan in appearance, hence the common but erroneous opinion that they were formed by dust brought from Africa. In fact, they were formed from calcareous sand, coral and shells deposited by the sea. Some of the dunes are twenty metres high, some of which can be walked on freely, while others can only be walked on marked paths. The Dunas de Maspalomas have the status of a reserve, being home to protected bird species, with the ocean as its southern boundary.
The dunes stretch from the Maspalomas lighthouse to the famous Playa del Ingles, one of the largest and most famous beaches on the island. It is about three kilometres long and 100 metres wide. It stands out, moreover, not only for its size, but also for its exceptionally nice and tactile sand. It is somewhat reminiscent of Caribbean or South American beaches. Maspalomas itself, on the other hand, looks a bit like the Bulgarian resorts of Sunny Beach or Golden Sands. It is full of large hotels and restaurants with a typically touristy menu.
Other worthwhile beaches on the island are: San Agustin, Puerto Rico, Amadores, Anfi del Mar and Guigu. These are located in different parts of the island, so any of them should be close to where you are staying. On the east coast of Gran Canaria, on the other hand, there are several picturesque viewpoints from which you can see Tenerife on a clear day. The most famous of these is the Mirador del Balcon.
The world’s tastiest bananas
If you are looking for non-obvious attractions on the island, we recommend the Museo del Platano, or museum of… banana. This is actually a guided walk through a banana plantation near Arucas. During the tour, you will learn about the differences between Canary Islands bananas and those from Ecuador or Costa Rica, and see up close the different varieties of banana, such as the raspberry banana and the rare blue banana. The walk ends with a tasting of banana products – wine, liqueur and jams.
Bananas from the Canary Islands are considered the most delicious. The locals warn that anyone who tastes them even once will never taste them again. This is probably a bit of an exaggeration, but you can really feel the difference. Especially if you buy one of the particularly sweet Canary Islands varieties at the market. Caution: be sure to look at the price before you buy. Such bananas can cost up to €5 a tiny piece. Other fruits that grow on the island are also worth trying: mangoes, melons, papayas, avocados and figs.
Mojo and gofio, or Canarian specialities
When it comes to more filling delicacies, Gran Canaria is famous for its mojos, or traditional local sauces. The green variety, mojo verde, is made with coriander, green peppers, garlic, vinegar and oil. The red variety, or mojo rojo, features red peppers. In restaurants you can sometimes find a version with mayonnaise added. Mojos are most often served with boiled potatoes, called papas arrugadas. Potatoes also form the basis of another Canarian dish, ropa vieja, a stew made from… whatever you happen to find in the fridge. This usually includes tomatoes, onions, chickpeas and sausage or other meat. We also encourage you to try sweet and salty products made from gofio, which is a yellow-brown flour made from roasted cereal or corn. These are definitely more common in … guidebooks than in local restaurants.
A study by American researchers at Syracuse University shows that Las Palmas is the city with the best climate in the world. This, moreover, applies to the entire island. The average annual temperature is 24 degrees during the day and 18 degrees at night. In summer, the temperature rarely reaches 30 degrees, while in winter it usually fluctuates around 20 degrees. Gran Canaria is therefore a very attractive tourist destination all year round, including for sunbathing.
Gran Canaria, where the flight from Malaga takes two hours, is not the only opportunity to feel the African climate. See also:
