An hour and a half from Marbella is the most original white town in Andalusia. It is Setenil de las Bodegas, literally built in rock. The streets here resemble tunnels and the interiors of the houses are like rocky ravines.
A unique place under the rocks
Lying in southern Spain, Setenil de las Bodegas is located just 18 kilometres from another wonderland – Ronda. What draws visitors to this small town – located in the canyon of the Río Trejo river – is its unusual architecture. It is hard to find another place like it in the world, where the buildings have been built into the steep walls of the canyon and their roofs serve as… rocks.
The name of the place is linked to a period in Spanish history known as the Reconquista, the struggle to oust the Moors from the Iberian Peninsula. The Castilians considered the seizure of this pueblo blanco crucial to the recapture of Granada. In the 15th century, the town, which was in Muslim hands, survived a Christian siege as many as seven times. Only the last attempt, which took place on 21 September 1484, was successful. Interestingly, the first siege took place in 1407, while Setenil did not finally fall until 77 years later, in 1484. This was due to the use of gunpowder artillery by Christian forces, which resulted in the town being captured in a 15-day siege.
The word Setenil is a simplified version of the Latin phrase Septem nihil, meaning ‘seven times nothing’. The suffix de las Bodegas has been added to the name – ‘bodega’ is Spanish for wine cellar, and the town is surrounded by vineyards. The full name Setenil de las Bodegas dates from the 15th century, when the new Christian settlers, in addition to maintaining the Arab olive and almond groves, decided to start growing vines in the town. The first two crops still flourish in the district, but the vineyards, known as bodegas, were destroyed by an insect plague in the 1860s, which effectively decimated most of Europe’s grape harvest.
Today, Setenil de las Bodegas is counted among the most visited pueblos blancos, or famous Andalusian white villages and towns. Many of them are located in the province of Cadiz. Setenil de las Bodegas is part of the so-called Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos, or Route of White Villages. It is a route of 19 towns located in the provinces of Malaga and Cadiz and is the essence of Andalusian culture. It includes: Arcos de la Frontera, Olvera, Setenil de las Bodegas, Grazalema, Zahara de la Sierra, Bornos, Espera, Villamartín, Algodonales, El Gastor, Torre-Alháquime, Alcalá del Valle, Prado del Rey, El Bosque, Ubrique, Benaocaz, Villaluenga del Rosario, Benamahoma and Algar.
Rocky streets
Setenil de las Bodegas owes its popularity above all to its incredible location. Guidebooks usually describe it as a ‘town in the rock’ and this is by no means an exaggeration. Many of the houses here have been built in rock cavities. Their back and sometimes side walls are formed by the towering rock above Setenil. The most distinctive and most photographed point of the town is the calle Cuevas del Sol. This street is not even so much built into the rock as under it. The rocky ceiling covers the houses and the pathway paved with restaurant tables.
If you are interested in Spain, it is very likely that you have also seen pictures from the neighbouring calle Cuevas de la Sombra. For a short stretch there, the rock is simultaneously adjacent to the buildings opposite, so the street resembles a tunnel. Setenil’s main square is the small Plaza de Andalucia. However, the town is above all a tangle of narrow streets and narrow alleys. It is difficult to pinpoint where its heart is.
Perhaps this is the name that should be given to the place where the calle Cuevas del Sol and the calle Cuevas de la Sombra meet by means of a bridge over the Trejo River. It flows right through the middle of Setenil and adds to its uniqueness and highlights its picturesque location. The river is hidden in a deep gorge and can best be seen from the gardens of the restaurants hidden at the back of the calle Cuevas de la Sombra.
Kissing corner
There’s a little corner in the town that you can’t miss. On calle Vega there is a small plaque surrounded by blue flowerpots that reads “Bésame en Este Rincón”, which means “kiss me in this corner” in Polish. If you are going on a romantic trip for two, this would be the perfect backdrop for photos.
Another attraction worth stopping at for a short session is the very photogenic Moorish-style doors. These are located on Calle San Benito number 13 – although the sign you will see will say ‘House 112’. In fact, it is 11 + 2 to avoid the number 13 – as Andalusians are very superstitious.
Less touristic than the calles de la Cueva del Sol and de la Sombra are the calles Herrerías, Minas and Calcetas, which, like the former, offer a unique urban layout, sharing a rocky roof.
Sightseeing for the hardy
In the highest part of the town, overlooking a sea of white houses, you will find the remains of a former Moorish fortress from the late 12th century, a defence tower and a reservoir where rainwater was collected to power the castle. For a small donation, you can climb the tower. From its top, you can enjoy a view of another famous pueblo blanco, Olvera.
Next to the castle stands the Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación). Its grey façade contrasts with the dominant white of Setenil. The late Gothic church, under the patronage of the Catholic Monarchs, was built at the turn of the 16th century on the site of a former mosque. Inside, there is a crucified Christ from the early 17th century, a silk-and-gold chasuble donated by the Catholic Monarchs(Los Reyes Católicos) at the consecration of the building and an interesting painting above the altar from the late 15th century.
As Setenil de las Bodegas is located on a hilltop, between hills, it is worth going to one of the local viewpoints. The best one is Mirador del Carmen (next to the Nuestra Señora Del Carmen chapel), on the way to which you have to climb about 90 steps. Mirador El Lizón and Mirador Balcón (from Spanish mirador – viewpoint) are also very popular. When visiting the town, a good level of fitness comes in handy. Many streets lead uphill and it is difficult to find an attraction that can be reached without at least a moderately strenuous climb.
What and where to eat in Setenil de las Bodegas?
Paella, calamari or octopus can of course be found in Setenil, but the traditional local cuisine is very different from that known, for example, from the Costa del Sol. One of the delicacies most associated with the region is migas. From a distance, this dish looks like a dark variant of risotto, but in fact it is based on small pieces of fried bread. These are topped with garlic (whole cloves in the original version!) and sausage, and sometimes the famous Spanish ham jamón iberico. There are also versions with peppers or a fried egg.
It can get really cold in Setenil in winter. An effective yet tasty way to warm up the body can be another local delicacy – sopa cortijera. This is a soup based on bread and garlic, with asparagus and eggs, in some variations ‘coloured’ with tomatoes.
The rocky town is famous – as is the whole of Andalusia – for its production of high-quality olive oil and goat’s cheese. The latter delicacy can be found not only in raw form, but also on the menus of local restaurants. We particularly recommend a dish consisting of slices of fried aubergine, goat’s cheese and honey.
Where is the best place to try these delicacies? The most recommended restaurant in Setenil is Bar Fresquito, located at the junction of two “rock” streets. Thecroquetas (croquetas), fillet(lomo), artichokes with prawns(alcachofas con gambas) or stuffed aubergine(berenjena estofada) are all worth trying there. While their food is delicious, from Monday to Thursday they only operate until 5pm.
Also popular is Restaurante Venta Mirabueno, which is located a little out of the way. El Patio de Maria Teresa is also worth a visit. There is probably no other establishment in Setenil with such an impressive view – of the town, the rocks and the church and ruins towering over it all. The best time to go there is around sunset.
See also:
Andalusian pueblos blancos. 7 towns and villages you must see
Liquid gold – Andalusian olive oil
How to get to and where to stay overnight in Setenil de las Bodegas?
Accommodation in Setenil de las Bodegas is best sought through Airbnb. The owners usually offer rentals of entire two- or three-storey cottages, and the prices are attractive. Even in high season, you can easily find something for less than a thousand zloty for 3-4 nights in this remarkable place. You will have to search for a free parking space along the winding roads surrounding the old part of the village. Alternatively, you can leave your car in one of the paid car parks on the outskirts – one of which is underground.
Setenil de las Bodegas is located at the western end of the province of Cadiz. It takes less than an hour and a half to get there by car from Marbella, and about 30 minutes from Ronda, another Andalusian pearl. Travelling by car is by far the best way to get to Setenil. There is no railway line in the town and the nearest bus stop is 5 kilometres away. Organised bus tours may be an option for the non-motorised.
